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- HOW TO TAKE APART A GRAY TRANSMISSION JACK MANUAL
- HOW TO TAKE APART A GRAY TRANSMISSION JACK SERIES
- HOW TO TAKE APART A GRAY TRANSMISSION JACK FREE
On some vehicles you're in a position to pull the suspension upright and outward enough to let the spindle shaft fall free of its bearing. Pull the lower control arm down until the ball joint separates from the steering upright. You probably can do this by loosening and then removing the pinch bolt at the bottom of the shock. If you don't mind destroying the rubber boot on the rod end, you can use a crowbar or a "pickle fork" puller.ĭisconnect the ball joint from the suspension upright. There are also threaded pullers for really stubborn cases. An alternative is to use two ball-peen hammers and hit both sides of the steering arm simultaneously. Then, smack the rod end a good shot with a hammer and it should pop right out. Leave the castellated nut a few threads on, and use a big screwdriver or pry bar to lift the steering arm up. If it's frozen, don't whack the end of the threaded shank with a hammer you'll probably just ding the threads. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end, and pop the tie rod end out of the steering arm.
HOW TO TAKE APART A GRAY TRANSMISSION JACK MANUAL
Consult your shop manual for specifics, but for the most part you'll need to do the following. You can use an air wrench to loosen it if you have compressed air available.Īt this point procedures may vary slightly, depending on your vehicle's suspension. handle, because that nut may be torqued to as much as 300 lb.-ft. Borrow, rent or buy the right socket and a flex handle with at least an 18-in. A large crescent wrench or pipe wrench is not an acceptable substitute. You'll need a big socket to remove the spindle nut. You'll need both wheels off the ground to allow enough suspension droop. Jack up the car and set the whole front end on proper safety stands, as high as you can. Start by loosening all the lug nuts on the wheel that you'll be working on with the car on the ground. There may be a new spindle nut in the box with the axle assembly. The counterman at the auto parts store will be able to tell you what you need and if the spindle nut needs to be replaced every time it's removed. Get the replacement axle before you start, as well as a new spindle nut and a cotter pin or two. Replacing a front-wheel-drive axle is straightforward, although physically demanding. Balls and grooves will show wear before the joint fails completely. The refurbishing process involves regrinding all the grooves in the inner and outer halves of the joint to a standard oversize, and replacing the cage and ball bearings with new oversize ones. You can save some money by buying a remanufactured axle, which will be virtually as good as new. You'd never get the stuff out of the washing machine. No mess, no fuss-which is good because the molysulfide-doped grease specified for CV joints is the blackest, nastiest, most thixotropic (you know, sticky) goop you can imagine, and it will stain your cuticles, your tools and your work clothes worse than printer's ink. The industry has made it standard procedure to swap in a complete new or remanufactured axle, with the boots installed and prelubricated. Nowadays it's difficult to find a CV joint for sale at a parts store. You'd then replace it and the boot, lubricate the new and old joint with fresh grease, reinstall and go. As recently as 10 years ago, the repair meant removing the pertinent axle and taking out the failed CV. Sometimes the rubber boots covering the joints fail from age or are torn by road debris, letting the grease out and dirt and water in. And it's usually the right side that goes first because here in the lefthand-drive US of A, we turn sharper around righthand corners than lefthand ones. All else being equal, the outer joints fail first because they run with the highest angularity-when the wheel is turned, the joint has to redirect the torque from the engine around a corner. There is an inner and outer joint on the left and right axles.
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The wheels of your front-drive vehicle are connected to the transaxle via axles that have constant-velocity-type universal joints at each end. Then all forward thrust drops off, punctuated by vibration and the occasional ping of tortured metal.
HOW TO TAKE APART A GRAY TRANSMISSION JACK SERIES
One afternoon, just as you pull out of the parking lot, there's a loud banging noise and a series of crunches. That clicking noise that your front-wheel-drive car makes as you accelerate around low-speed righthand corners has been getting a little louder for weeks.